Rig Tuning

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From: Bill Heintz, Deviation Date: Thurs, 9 May 2002
Subject: Rig Tuning

What sort of rig tension are people using?

From my notes last year we had at one point:

Uppers: 1175 #
Intermediates: 1000 #
Lowers: 1125 #

If anyone would like to borrow my Loos tension gauge, I'd be happy to lend it out (as long as I get it back when I need it.)


From: Mark McCarthy, Slàinte Date: Mon, 13 May 2002
Subject: RE: Rig Tuning

Think from the lack of response, I gather that people are either not using a gauge to measure their shroud tension or do not want to share their numbers? I would like to assume that it is the former, rather than the latter.

My experience jumping on a few different soverels has been that everyone has their own setup. I jumped on bushwhacker at the last nationals (sorry Erik for sharing) , they sail with very tight uppers, a little less tight intermediaries, and almost no tension on their lowers. I believe that they do this because they sail with runners, and it provides them with more options to bend/depower the mast and provides more range.

Everyone has heard the basic tuning tricks of first, making sure the rig is centered side to side by measuring or using a halyard. Second, start tightening with the uppers, then the intermediaries, then lowers to making even turns on both sides. Third, most importantly I think, in 8-10 kts of breeze, with a #1 up, continue to tighten the leeward shrouds just until they stop going slack, still taking even turns on each side. This could require a few tacks and should give you a good solid setup.

After sailing tones of one design dinghies, shroud tension is critical especially in lighter winds. In lighter winds, I found, err on the side of looser is better. In heavy winds, err on the side of tighter is better. Just got a Loos gauge for rod rigging, will be interested to tune the rig using the above method, which I have used for years, and then integrate actual tensions.


From: Mark Yancey, Manhattan Magic Date: Mon., 13 May 2002
Subject: RE: Rig Tuning

Be careful using the "halyard method" of rig centering, we just this weekend measured Manhattan Magic for the final dimensions for our new rig and found the stbd chainplate to be 1/2 inch higher than port. Also I think its more important to have the rig inline with the keel than exactly centered in the boat, this can be done with a plum bob when the boat is out of the water.


From: Kent Gardam, Foghorn Date: Mon., 13 May 2002
Subject: Re: Rig Tuning

I have a standard (non-rod rigging type) Loos gauge that I had from my J30. I have been using it for the rigging on Foghorn. Too cheap to by a rod-rigging one. Anyway, it "seems" to provide repeatable numbers for tension and work pretty effectively. Anyone know if I'm just kidding myself with its readings or if there is a real reason to spend the couple hundred bucks on the rod-rigging style? I was told by the previous owner of Foghorn (Tartan hull #82) that the uppers should be the highest tension, then the lowers, then the intermediates. I use numbers of about 39 (on the standard Loos gauge) for uppers, 36-37 for the lowers, and 35 for the intermediates. I don't know what that translates to in pounds without looking at the gauge which is on the boat. I guess I also don't know whether those poundage numbers on the gauge translate to rod rigging either.


From: Jerry Kedziora, x-Zot Date: Mon., 13 May 2002
Subject: RE: Rig Tuning

Thanks for the advice on the chainplates.
I know that my starboard is about 1/2" higher also.
I think that centering the rig over the keel is more important.


From: Bill Heintz, Deviation Date: Mon., 13 May 2002
Subject: RE: Rig Tuning

Also, you may want to check the Athwartships position of the mast partners . . . the partners on Deviation are about 3/4"-1/2" closer to the Stbd side. I'm not sure if this is a original construction error, or due to a repair.


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